Dec 3
One finds so much hope too though, thinking of the small coincidences of life, those beautiful encounters, the coincidental belief in the limitless potential for these encounters to repeat themselves. Sometimes it may one individual, that your life turns itself back to, at interesting or irreversible moments. Then you catch that look on your face, the surprise and the fear - linked to the impossibility to expect, nor plan. Spontaneity is of course most of what there is to these unique glimpses of another we did not expect to bump into - yet there's more... fate? or the thought that nothing happens without a reason. Whatever it is -- the very process of this 'thought creation' - the intuition we embrace in thinking that: it was not a coincidence... that process is beautiful and utterly human I think.
Generational disconnection ?
Yet another set of wonders, inquiries, laughters and profound questionning - around the potential idea that our generation is generally lacking belief.. certainly this is linked to the apathy I was referring to in my last post. But I'm also speaking of more than political beliefs at this point, the disillusion of love in relationship, combined to a sharper demand for returns and efficient interaction patterns -- lack of communication - dullness.
Dec 3
...There's something addictive about staying up through the night, ... the silence and lack of interruption ignites the potential for self reflection I feel, as thought long, limitless passing hours inspired action better than day time did....
Aug 30
On the road again...
Quand l'experiencecommence et qu'on parcours les premiers pas du chemin, on constate avec bonheur et legerté que la 'gnac' du voyage ne semble jamais nous avoir quitté... et c'est alors qu'avec une curiosité resoublée de sens on retrouve avec plaisir cette sensation propre au "flanage", la recherche du nouveau, du surprenant, de l'authentique, et de toutes ces choses qu'on ne peut trouver que sur la route...
Dans "l'usage du monde", le livre phare de Nicolas Bouvier, il ecrit tres justement: "faineanter dans un monde neuf est la plus absorbante des occupations..."
Mar 29
The "riif" of Halep - or the so called 'suburbs' - looks like nothing close to what I could imagine... After less than a half hour ride outside Syria's second biggest city, I was already enchanted by some absolutely gorgeous landscapes. Of course, I'm speaking within the very peculiar realm of 'landscape aesthetic' because for many other reasons the under-developped and poor areas that surround Aleppo have nothing to be excited about. The arid and rocky landscapes contrast with some fertile green lands which speak for both the richness and difficulties of the peasants to cultivate their land. Syria produces a lot cotton and relies on its 45% of steppes and pastural land to nourish its cattle.
Most impressive about these wild sceneries are all the "atharat" - ruins - that have been sitting there peacefully for hundreds of years... It makes our journeys even more exciting, as there is absolutely no fence that keeps us from exploring these archeological delights.. Yet I cannot help but wonder what these sites will become/look like 20 years down the road... Syria has every reasons to become a desirable tourist destinations, experiencing both the advantages and the curses of 'mass' tourism.
The hidden gems of Aleppo's 'suburbs'
Mar 4
I usually dislike the grand generalization about cultures - such as the preconceived idea that a certain country is intrinsincally more hospitable or welcoming than another -- but I must admit that the reputation of Syria's people is well founded... the last months has enriched me on so many different levels, and that's mainly thanks to the increadible people I've met on the way. It's not just about the way they make you feel at home...it's about their genuine willingness to take the time to speak, to think about our differences, and to really establish trust between us. These Syrians have been able to move beyond the politics, and to invite us in a culture that we could never understand without them showing us the way.
This is Boushra and Amal, in an Armenian restaurant by the Christian area
This is Zeina and I, whie visiting the Azem Palace in Damascus
To old cities and new friends...
This is Reem, my 'language partner.' We have been exploring the city a lot together, searching for the best falafel, the cheapest radio, and even the local 'masalsala!" (that's the local Syrian soap opera ;)
Mar 2
Smeons
Saint Simeons
Visited under pouring rain the site of Symeon the Stylites -- he was a Christian ascetic priest who lived completely alone for 37 years on a small platform on top of a pillar... about an hour away from Aleppo.
Feb 5
Aleppo is rich of more than one souq, but the most famous one is worthy of being called the Aleppo souq. At the heart of the old city (medina al-qadima), I enjoy loosing myself in what the Lonely Planet describes as a "seemingly infinite number of alleys and cul de sacs"...
It's not always that clear though, and it's not surprising to find the stalks of raw meat cohabit with the pistachios! ;)
The markets...
It's important to visit these markets both on a busy weekday and on a Friday (the local Sunday). It's a very different feel to walk around when everything is closed obviously, but that's the only way I can truly enjoy the architecture and the details of the doors, otherwise hidden by the colors of the spices.
Also I find it increadible how organized the souqs are -- behind their hectic appearance of chaos. You'll never find a clear map of the place but once you know your way around you discover that the goods are well divided: the perfumes, the fabrics, the meats, the scarves, the juice stalls, the shoes, the spices...
Feb 4
Halep qal'3a!!
La "citadelle d'Alep"- probably Aleppo's most famous landmark.... sits on a natural small hill ("til") at the end of Aleppo's biggest souq. I must say it's quite impressive to see it for the first time, and easy to believe that it served as an efficient protection against invading enemies...
The place itself apparently initially served as a place of worship in the 10th cenury BC (remember that Aleppo is argued to be the oldest continuously inhabited city!). A few civilizations contributed to building the fortifications, and many civilizations subsequently occupied the fort, including the Greeks, Byzantines, Ayyubids, and Muslims of the 12th century who used it as a power base during the Crusades.
What remains is mostly the work of the Mamluks though, who ruled from 1250 to 1517. I've actually not visited the inside of it yet, but I hear it's beautiful too (although some of it is said to be poorly restored). There's remains of a palace and two mosques.
And the city did some good work to organize very nice public space all around the citadel... There's a few good cafes, along with a wide plaza where kids play freely. It's great to see some much "daily life" around what could have become a dry touristy area.
Jan 31
...they use the traditional Middle Easter bread (khoubz) to roll the falafels... and we can usually tell if it's a good falafel by the way it can hold itself together while you eat it ;)
...and of course, we can't mention the 'falafel' without describing the shawarma! We eat it with chicken or lamb, and accompany the meatwith a few pickles and cream... Syrians have no particular "lunch" or "dinner" time so you can have your take-out shawarma whenever you fell like it, you'll find it at every busy street corner!!
The "street food"...
That's not the best way to describe it, since most of the local economy relies on such 'street industry' and other market places of the kind-- but the truth is that some of the best ingredients that Syria has to offer are served on the pavement's sides and in the narrow alleys of the souqs...
I've selected a few pictures, including the following one demonstrating the rolling technique of what is apparently known as the "best" falafels in town!!
